Ways to set up a hot tub in your backyard
You don’t require to spend much time luxuriating in a hot-tub spa to discover its relaxation advantages. Backyard medspas are ideal for households on the go.
Spas are not for everybody, nevertheless. All those warm, rubbing bubbles can raise blood pressure and heart rates, while reducing blood sugar level. They’re not advised for babies, the extremely old or those with diabetes, hypertension or heart disease.
Choosing Your hot tub
Looking for hot tubs can be a little confusing. There are so numerous brand names and models, and every salesperson appears to highlight a various set of functions. As usual, price is an excellent sign of quality. Hot Tubs range in between $1500 and $10,000, with the much better designs beginning around $3500. These are 3- and four-person tubs. Larger health clubs cost more, and those with great deals of specialized jets, DC-powered pumps and ozone-generating water purifiers, can quickly reach $6000 to $8000. Add devices and you can easily pay a couple thousand more.
A few companies offer two-person hot tubs, but a lot of start with three- or four-person seating and go up to the eight-person size. A full-size tub can determine 8 x 8 ft. and 42 in. Huge tubs are great for big, active families with plenty of area, however smaller sized tubs are no less appealing or healing.
Filled with water, a full-size tub can weigh 5500 pounds – more than many conventionally framed floorings and decks can securely manage. If you cannot beef up the floor, you’ll either need a smaller sized tub or a setup on concrete.
The majority of spa shells these days are made in two layers: an enhanced fiberglass base and a formed acrylic shell laminated over it. The shell is piped and fitted with pumps and jets, and is insulated.
A lot of spas are wired with 240-volt electrical equipment and some include DC converters. DC motors run more silently and DC circuit boards are very trustworthy. A few economy tubs are readily available with 120-volt circuitry to make the electrical connections easier – you just plug these designs in. These tubs are small, their heating units are less effective and they shut down when the jets are turned on.
Business generally offer 10- to 20-year service warranties against leaks through the shell, however these types of leaks are unlikely given the thickness of the laminations. More probable are surface problems such as blisters, cracks and staining. Look for a 5- to seven-year surface service warranty and three- to five-year defense on the pumps.
The spa we selected is a JacuzziTriton – a large design with all the bells and whistles. Powered by two 4-hp DC pumps, it sports 42 jets – 10 totally adjustable and 16 directional, 10 air injector jets and a set of lounge jets that offer complete back massage. Other features include a push-button control for the tub operation, an AM/FM/CD gamer, underwater lighting, 4 headrest cushions and dual waterfall components. Most importantly, it includes an integrated ozone generator and a water cleanser that conserves money and time by decreasing the quantity of chemicals needed. At 42 x 91 x 91 in., it’s not the biggest tub, however it comes close. Jacuzzi’s Triton has a sticker label price of $10,000, but normally sells for less.
Locating The Tub
To fit the tub, we cut away some of the bank and built a little retaining wall. When choosing where to place your unit, keep in mind that hot tubs need service access on all sides.
We prepared for one side of our tub to be 18 in. from our deck, then distributed the width of the tub plus an extra 18 in. to establish the face of the brand-new retaining wall. To accommodate the depth of the retaining-wall blocks, plus a foot for drain gravel, we cut into the bank an additional 24 in.
To construct the keeping wall, first dig out the bank. Using some of the removed soil, grade the setup location just enough to enable drainage far from the tub. For the very first row of landscape blocks, excavate a trench about 4 in. deep and fill it with pea gravel or crushed rock.
Level the gravel and compact it with a hand tamper or gas-powered sand-plate tamper. String a level line to guide the very first row of blocks. Utilize a 4-ft. level to make sure the course is level.
Set landscape blocks on pea gravel in the trench to match the leveled string. Then, examine this very first course with a 4-ft. level.
With the first course in place, set the staying blocks. The type of block we utilized has a lip along the back edge that locks over the block listed below. When turning a corner, you’ll have to break off this edge to maintain the very same obstacle between the courses. To keep these blocks from moving forward gradually, glue them in place with masonry building and construction adhesive. When you finish the wall, back-fill with gravel. Cover the top of the gravel with weed-guard material and soil.
Where the wall turns, break off edge-lock tabs on the blocks. Next, use building adhesive to hold the blocks in place.
Next, set the type lumber for the concrete pad, and level it in all directions. Fill the kind with concrete and screed it with a straight 2 x 4.
While a sufficient pad might consist of 2500-psi concrete, boosted with iron rebar or wire mesh, regional electrical codes would have needed us to ground this enhancing metal back to the electrical service panel. To avoid this problem, we upgraded to 3000-psi concrete and added fiberglass reinforcement to our 4-in.- thick pad.
After pouring concrete in a leveled form, screed it with a straight 2 x 4. Float and trowel the surface area smooth.
We moved our tub from the driveway to the website on a little trailer. Carefully move the tub off and position it on the slab.
Setting The Tub
If you buy your hot tub from a spa dealership, the company will typically set it in location for you. If you purchase through a house center or discount shop, however, you might need to move and set up the tub yourself. Presuming your tub is in a dog crate in the driveway, get rid of the packing and slide the tub onto the trailer.
Water and electrical power don’t mix, so if you’re not comfy with your circuitry skills, this is a good time to employ an electrical expert.
In our case, regional codes required a constant bond wire from the tub to the service panel. We also required a detach box at least 5 ft. from the tub and a GFCI breaker protecting the entire circuit.
Due to the fact that of the DC converter, we utilized just 2 hot wires, a grounding wire and a bonding wire – no neutral was required. Our spa was close to 70 ft. from the circuit box, so we ran 6-ga. stranded wire for the 2 hots and the ground wire, and an 8-ga. bond wire. While all outdoor wiring needs to remain in conduit, we chose to set up the entire run from the main panel in 1-in. PVC pipeline.
Begin by running the channel from the circuit box to a home rim joist near the tub. Bore through the siding and the joist with a hole saw and feed the avenue through the joist.
Bring power from the main panel to the outside through the home’s rim joist. Bore a hole to move avenue through.
Glue a POUND conduit box to the avenue and extend the channel up to a disconnect box. At the tub, sign up with a POUND to the avenue with a slip coupling to permit the ground to shift seasonally without stressing the conduit connections. Here, we brought it up to the deck with another slip coupling and LB, and then ran it to the disconnect box.
At the tub, splice a slip coupling just listed below the LB connection. Run the conduit in a trench at least 18 in. deep
With the channel in location, pull the 4 wires from the primary panel to the disconnect box with a fish tape.
With conduit from the panel and tub conference at the detach box, use a fish tape to pull the 4 wires through.
Bind the hot wires to the hot terminals and the ground wires to the ground terminals. In our case, it was needed that the bonding wire continue undisturbed through the disconnect panel.
Inside the detach box, connect the hot wires to the four hot terminals, and the ground wires to the 2 ground terminals.
Complete the outside wiring by making the hot, ground and bond connections in the spa’s devices box. You’ll find the terminals clearly identified.
At the tub’s control box, secure the hot wires, the ground wire and the bonding wire inning accordance with producer’s directions.
Link the circuit hot wires to a 50-amp GFCI breaker in the service panel and connect the bond and grounding wires to the panel’s grounding bus. Leave the circuit’s power off up until after you’ve filled the tub with water and your work has actually passed examination.
In the circuit box, link the circuit with a 50-amp, 240-volt GFCI breaker. Turn off the power and prevent touching the panel.
To make steps for our hot tub, we first poured a 31-in.- broad concrete pad, and after that built 2 30-in.- wide step boxes from cedar. Make the box frames out of 2 x 6 lumber. Size the depth of the bottom box for two 2 x 12 treads, and the depth of the top box for one 2 x 12 tread. Put together packages with screws.
Construct frames from 2 x 6 cedar for the two steps. Develop the larger bottom frame first and connect two 2 x 12s to its top.
After the bottom box is developed, secure the top box frame to it with screws owned diagonally from the within
Location the smaller sized frame on the rear edge of the lower step and protect the two levels with screws owned diagonally.
Then, add the leading tread and stain the assembly to match the skirting.
Finish the step assembly by screwing a single 2 x 12 tread to the top box frame. Stain the actions to match the tub.
1. Make sure hot tub/spa is filled to proper amount. The Proper amount is whatever the spa manufacturer suggests the spa water to be for proper operation of the spa. SpaCap.com Swim Spa Covers/ Hot Tub Covers rest right on the water surface so make sure your spa has water in it.
2. Distinguish the top from the bottom and observe the location of the valves. The top is the side of the Spacap with the Sunbrella fabric on it that shows when it is on the spa. The bottom is the side with the valves on it. When the SpaCap is on the spa, the bottom will rest on the water.
3. Place the SpaCap cover on spa, laying it on water surface. Top, Sunbrella side up. You are meant to fold the cover back to expose the valves to fill your SpaCap.
Note: Valves are meant to be on underside when your cover is on hot tub.
4. Inflation. Open the flap of the valve you intend to put air in. Prop open the inner check valve with a plastic funnel. The funnel will also divert the air into the cover. In order to put air into the SpaCap you need something that moves a volume of air. For example a shop vac that has an exhaust port you can hook the hose into or a leaf blower. An air compressor would work but it will take longer since it is designed to move air under pressure. The SpaCap is not designed to be under pressure.
Inflate the “Top” valve first until there is about eight inches of air. Inflate the bottom unmarked chamber to desired level. We recommend using a shop vac to inflate your SpaCap.com Swim Spa Cover/ Hot Tub Cover.
5. Close valves and center the cover on the spa so that it evenly covers the entire hot tub.
6. Place fasteners as needed. The fasteners help the SpaCap keep its shape, insulate better and keep the moisture running off. The fasteners should be equally spaced and should go below the acrylic of the spa. If your spa has a wood lip that protrudes further then the acrylic the fasteners should go about three inches below the wood lip. If as you are installing the fasteners the cover becomes difficult to fasten on the last side, you have too much air in the cover. There should still be a little give in the cover when fastened and the corners should not be lifting.
If your water is not heated when you first fit the cover, do not inflate the cover all the way. When the water starts to heat up, the air in the cover will, too, possibly causing the cover to be over inflated.
Set up the polyester filters in the filter real estates and fill the tub with a garden hose.
With the setup complete, it’s time to fill the tub. Prior to filling, however, set up the polyester filters in their real estates.
Insert the tube into one of the filter housings and tape it in location. Anticipate the tub to fill in about 45 minutes.
Fill the tub through the filter real estates with a garden pipe. Tape the tube in place. The tub must complete about 45 minutes.